Yamaha Raptor 700R Engine Build Part 2: Oil Pump and Shift Shaft | Partzilla.com

Yamaha Raptor 700R Engine Build Part 2: Oil Pump and Shift Shaft | Partzilla.com

Hello John Talley here with
Partzilla.com, and if you’re following along this is the next segment in our
total engine build for our 2017 Yamaha Raptor 700 R. In this video we’re going
to be focused on the shift shaft and the oil pump. So, if you need those parts for
your machine, why don’t you check the link in the description below– where that
little arrow is– and it will give you a shopping cart with all the parts that
we use for this build. Now if your machine’s a little bit different? Not a
2017? Well come to our website Partzilla.com and then drill down to your
particular machine so you can get the correct parts. If you’re still having
trouble, then give us a call. That’s what we’re here for and we can guide you to
the correct parts for your application. So if you’ve got your parts together
let’s take a look at the tools that we’re going to need to pull this off. For
once, there are no specialty tools. There’s only basic tools you’re going to
need are a 10 millimeter socket, a four and a five millimeter Allen, a pair of
circlip pliers, a hammer, and a good torque wrench. So if you’ve got
everything together we can go ahead and get started, so let’s
go. And now let’s start with our oil housing.
So first up, let’s go ahead and get our two O-rings for the intake and output of
the oil pump itself. Next go in lay in our gasket. Now the oil pump. So we’re
going to start with the top bolt. It’s always been a rule of thumb of mine to
use Loctite on, well just about anything that’s inside of the engine as
far as the bolt goes. Just makes life easier. Don’t tighten that top one all
the way yet because we still have to get the lower bracket and the bottom two
bolts in place. Make sure you lined up on that gasket, and once we get all three
started in there by hand then we’ll come back and torque them. This little bracket
is basically a windage tray or the gear that goes in here. So, let’s take those
to 7.2, which of course I’m gonna take a date I can actually stop it a little bit
short. Get closer to that 7.2 mark. Now we can go ahead and put in the gear. You’ll
notice that one side is a little bit more protruding out, that is the part
that’s going to go in first. And the part that’s actually on the outside is
concave. If you did it backwards, well then they hit this gear with machine
itself against the the bolts that are in there. We don’t want that. So that’s the
side you want going in. And that gear is held in a little circlip. Now we’re gonna
put on the rest of the windage tray. A little bit more Loctite on the bolts
that hold it down. Now these are a little bit smaller than the other bolts that
are out here, so there are only two point nine foot pounds. And that’s not a lot so
be careful here. My torque wrench actually as low as it’ll go is five, so
we’re just gonna take a regular ratchet and just barely snug it down. That should do it. Alright with that in
place let’s start working on the shift mechanism. So let’s start by getting what
they call this shift drum segment in there. Once again a little bit of Loctite.
Just want to make sure that this detent lines up with that pin. If you were
watching earlier, I have the reverse mechanism the lever is in the up
position, and it’s actually holding my shift drum because we have to get 22
foot pounds on this bolt slash pin and I didn’t want to stress the transmission
with the torque wrench doing that. But because that arm is actually reached in
and it’s holding the drum it’s gonna pull against that arm versus stressing
the transmission. There we go. Alright I already have this assembly put together,
but just for clarity’s sake, I’m gonna pull it back apart show you how it goes
together because chances are yours is not assembled and ready to go like this
one is. So here’s all our little pieces. Starts off let’s get the guide on to the
holder and just roughly hold it in that position. At this point we’ll start over on
this side. We’ll get it spring. This piece in. Now, we want that curved edge to go in like that and here’s where it gets fun.
Now we have to do the other side without all this flying apart.
Same scenario. Spring. Now the trick is here to get it bring it up
into the guide. Wasn’t that fun? And whatever you do don’t drop it, otherwise it’s
gonna fly off in every single direction you can imagine.
So now, let’s carry it over and get it set in place. Like that. Once again. Loctite on these two
outer bolts. And we’re gonna take those to 7.2. Alright with that in place, now we
just need to get the shift shaft installed. So before we can install the
shift shaft, there’s a couple of pins that need to go in place into the case.
This little small one, which actually is a holder for the spring and this which
is a pivot point for the the shift shaft itself. So let’s get this little guy
knocked in first. I’m just going to use a little 7 millimeter socket to at least
get it started and then we’ll tap it down. Alright we’re gonna drive it in a
little bit further, but the trick is don’t flush it all the way out because
we actually have to have the spring that’s gonna hook to it that extends
down to that detent. That should do. So we’re getting ready to
install the shift stopper pin and it actually goes into this part of the case.
But if you look down, this particular hole goes straight into the engine so
you could drive it all the way in if you tried hard enough. So what we need to
determine is what is the correct depth. The manual really doesn’t tell me, so
what I did is go and put a shift shaft together. We’re just gonna drop it in
place for a second, and we’re gonna set it in place. And I basically want it to
end up being even or a little bit protruding past that edge right there.
So what I’m gonna do, let’s put a mark here. I’m gonna flip it over and that’s
the depth I’m gonna drive it to, which looks like about 11, 12 millimeters.
Somewhere in there. Basically it almost looks like I’ve cut
it in half so I’d say halfway– halfway the distance of the pin itself. That
should do it. So before we put in the shift shaft,
let’s go ahead and put some assembly lube on it. Now let’s drop it in place. There she is. Next, let’s get the spring
that goes in between that lower arm in that pin. Piece of cake. Okay, with that in place,
we’re gonna go ahead and rotate it up, get the shift shaft seal in place. That’s
where our seal needs to go. A little bit of oil and we’ll get it pressed down. All
I’m using here guys, just a 13 millimeter socket to get it pushed in. That’ll do.
I told you I was gonna put on this arm and spring, I think I’m gonna hold that
till we get that case on, so that’ll pretty much wrap this side up. We’ll just
put these aside until a little bit later in the build. Alright guys that pretty
much wraps this particular segment up. If you need the parts list, check that link
in the description they’re all right there. If you have any questions or
comments, leave them in the section below and I’ll do my best to answer them. Until
next time, we just want to say thanks for shopping here with us at Partzilla and we will see you in the next video.

6 thoughts on “Yamaha Raptor 700R Engine Build Part 2: Oil Pump and Shift Shaft | Partzilla.com

  1. Great information! Can you guys please make a series like this for the trx450? Keep up the good work!

  2. I dont even own a raptor and im watching these vids. These vids are truly gold for whoever is rebuilding their engine. So only thumbs up for these vides. And i have watched the 400ex series vids because i rebuilt my 400ex. thanks again.

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