7 Ways You’re Destroying Your Mountain Bike | MTB Maintenance Tips

7 Ways You’re Destroying Your Mountain Bike | MTB Maintenance Tips


– Mountain bikes may
well be tough old things. They can take a hell of a
pasting out on the trails, but they’re not invincible. It’s entirely possible that you’re slowly, or actually in some cases, rapidly, aging your pride and joy. So let’s take a look at those things that really do kill your bike, and more importantly,
what you can do about it. (logo swooshing) (upbeat music) Okay, so let’s start with bearings, loose bearings in particular. Every mountain bike, even one that doesn’t
have rear suspension, will still have quite a
lot of bearings on there. You’ve got your rear hub, you’ve got the free hub body itself, you’ve got the bottom bracket,
you’ve got the front hub, and you can have the headset. And then added to that equation, if you have a rear suspension bike, there’s going to be shock mounts on there and any pivots that you have on the back, whether they use regular
bearing races like these or cartridge bearings,
or if they use bushings. Now, they all wear out and
they all have problems. Now, if you ride with loose bearings, firstly, you’re adding
friction to your ride, so that’s firstly not a good thing. Secondly, in the form of,
let’s say rear suspension, if you’re riding with loose bearings, just say two of them loose,
may be the main pivots, that means there’s going to be movement, and that movement will translate to additional wear on the other ones. So really is an essential thing to A, make sure there’s no
hindrance to the movement of your back end of the bike and that nice suspension
action you’re paying for, but also B, to make sure
you don’t prematurely wear all the other bearings on there, because it’s all connected together. Now, bearings, given the nature of how they’re used on a bike,
they will wear out over time, no bearing is going to
be completely invincible. So it’s down to you to
basically maintain them as best as you can, some
bearings we’ve done videos on, you can basically get
a bit more life on them by flipping off the seals and
putting some more grease in. It’s not going to improve
a badly damaged bearing, but it will help a dried up bearing last that bit longer if need be. Now, what you’re looking for
is a bearing that is smooth and a bearing that has no play in it. You will find a well maintained
bearing or a new bearing has a slight resistance to it. That’s purely from the
grease that’s on the inside and from the seals. Now, if I just tweak this
one past a microphone, you’ll hear that it probably
doesn’t have much of a sound. Whereas if I take a knackered old bearing, I think this is off Steve Jones’s bike, you’ll hear the difference. (bearing scratching) So what you’re hearing there is, in fact, pitted surfaces on the inside,
it’s all grinding round, and the actual bearings
are basically been dragging on the inside of the shells of that. So, bit by bit that’s falling to bits, and if you continue riding a
bike with these all over it, A, it’s going to feel horrible, B, its back end’s going
to be all over the place, you’re going to get ghost shifting, generally not good thing,
and the long term effect is it can damage your bike. So make sure you keep an
eye on all the bearings on your bike, and you won’t be ruining it. Now, most mountain bikes these days will have a suspension fork on the frame. Obviously, this is a very
old one, this is a FOX TALAS. Now, the problem with stanchions on a bike is they’re subject to ingesting all the muck and moisture into them. Now, as you know, a suspension fork is essentially made up
of a few key components. Other than that, they’re
all the same, all right? So, the fundamental
basics are the lower legs with the brace connected,
that is known as the slider, the upper legs here are
known as the stanchion tubes, and then you’ve got the
crown steering unit. Quite often, the upper
tubes, the stanchions, will be one part, and it’s known as a CSU. These essentially slide
into the outer leg, there will be bushings
on the inside of that, and then there’ll be a
foam wiper and a seal. Now that’s all there is to it. Of course, there’s dampers and
other systems on the inside. Now, the key to making your
expensive suspension fork last is by firstly keeping them clean. Secondly, keeping them serviced. Even a basic lower leg service will keep your fork going considerably longer
than not doing anything. And the last one is making sure they don’t look anything like this, and if they do, stop
riding them immediately ’cause you’re just causing
yourself more damage. So this will have been
ridden in poor conditions, probably never serviced. And due to the telescopic
nature of a suspension fork as it’s operating, you
are slowly pulling in mud and muck into the fork,
which grinds up and down, wearing out the bushes that help the fork slide in the first place, and then of course wearing
out the more expensive legs, the bushes can be replaced. They’re a consumable part, they’re designed to wear out over time. The legs are not, and as you can see here, this one is in absolutely awful condition. And effectively, this was
a write-off, this fork, we’ve actually got this
from a suspension machinist. This guy sent their forks
there to get them serviced and went home with a new pair of forks because these could not be serviced. And again, if you look at this, these shouldn’t make any
noise going down here, but it feels like
sandpaper, it’s the worst. If you can ever hear that, oh. (fork scratching) 10 quid, 20 quid, 30 quid,
40 quid, 50 quid, 60 quid. Lubricated even can help, if you apply some basic fork
oil to these upper legs here just above the seals, compress
yours forks a few times, it will ingest some of that in there and it will help basically
keep them nice and supple. What you do want to be careful
off when you are doing this is make sure you don’t get
any oil near your brakes, make sure that cannot happen. Preferably do it with
the front wheel removed from your bike, just to
basically safeguard yourself. Keep them nice and clean,
do a lower leg service, it’s a really simple job,
people get freaked out by a lower leg service,
think it’s something crazy. Essentially all it is is removing two bolts from
the bottom of the fork, pulling the lowers off, draining out a very small quantity of oil, sometimes as little as 10 CC on there, and basically putting it back on again, it’s very, very simple, and that will make your
folks go on for a long time. Henry has just made a video
on real time fork servicing, so that is something you’re
going to be able to check out and follow along at home, think of it as a bit of a cooking program. Nice and simple, and again,
no excuses for you lot, it’s a nice, easy thing to do, and it will save you a
fortune in the long run. (gentle music) A worn chain. In fact, a worn transmission. Now, this is something
that is a consumable part of the bike, you’re going to wear it out. However, you can make it last a bit longer if you
follow a very simple rule, and that rule really
is replacing your chain when it’s worn, basically. It’s quite simple, if
you replace your chain just before it’s knackered, you’re going to be able to make
your chain rings last longer, and your rear sprockets on
a cassette will last longer. And the reason for that is there’s a thing called chain stretch. Now, your chain doesn’t actually stretch. However, the chain pitch
will get slightly longer. The components of a chain are
you have these outer plates, you have the inner plates,
you have the rollers, basically, they’re
effectively like bushes, and you have the pins
that go through them. Now, those rollers get worn. And in doing so, they enable the chain to actually kind of, the links
to stretch and move around. As the pitch changes very
slightly as the chain stretches, what’s going to mean is that basically it’s going to wear on a
different part of that tooth. The next thing you’ll see is
the teeth will start hooking. You can see this on really old, knackered cassettes and
chains, and on the sprockets. And the effect of that is your chain will start hooking onto the drive train, it wears them into really fine points, and then suddenly you’ve
got to replace everything. Well, I say suddenly, this is a thing that can happen over time. Get yourself a chain checker, plenty available on the market, they enable you to check your chain. And whilst you’re at it, also take a good look at your chain as well, and the rear sprockets
and the chain rings, you can actually look at the teeth and you can see damage to them. What you’re looking for, or
what you’re not looking for, is hooked teeth, and they’re
quite easy to identify. You can see a really worn out chain ring against a brand new chain
ring, they look very different. When you look at your chain, make sure if any parts of the outer
plate are stepped out a bit, that’s a classic example of
where the chain will snap. And that chain will snap under pressure, which means it’s always going
to be in a bad situation, throws your body weight
forwards over the handlebars, suddenly using your face as a brake, so it’s not a good thing. So make sure you keep
an eye on your chains. Brake pads. Obviously you need brakes
on a mountain bike, and you’ll be ruining the
way your mountain bike rides and performs and potentially
some expensive parts of it if you don’t keep an
eye on your brake pads. Now, they pretty much do their own thing until they’re either contaminated, in which case they’re
usually fit for the bin, or when you wear them out, basically you’ll need to replace them. That is something you’re definitely going to have to keep an eye on because no brake pad lasts
the same as another one, it completely varies on how
much you use your brakes, the size of your braking
rotors, and of course, where you ride and the
conditions you ride in. Now, the construction of a brake pad, so you got metal backing plate, then you have your pad material, essentially they’re bonded to that plate. But when they wear out, you can actually end up braking just
using that metal plate. Now, I shouldn’t need
to tell you that that’s going to be damaging for the rotors, and actually, it can be really
bad for the pistons as well. So, do take care and make sure you check your brake
pads from time to time. Very important. When you do inspect brake pads, the best way to do is to
remove them from the caliper. I do recommend putting
some rubber gloves on, like latex or nitrile gloves, and the reason for that
is you still have oils and stuff in your hands that
can contaminate the pads. This one is already contaminated so it doesn’t matter that
I’m holding it like this, but do take care and you
keep an eye on those things. Now, there’s one more thing that’s actually very important
and often overlooked, is the disc rotors themselves. Quite often people
replace their brake pads when they’re worn out and just
carry on on the same rotors. You usually can, but they’re
not going to last forever, because you’re using metallic
base pads on a metal rotor, you are going to wear that rotor down, at some point it will fail. So it’s important to check them. Be careful using your bare hands on there ’cause of the oils in them, you don’t want that to go near
the actual breaking surfaces. But you want to check for any
sort of scoring on that surface. If there is some, that’s a good indication that it’s worn out. The best way is to get yourself
a set of digital calipers or verniers to accurately
measure the thickness. Definitely check your specifics with your brake manufacturer. For your own safety check it, because the other alternative
is using your face as a brake. Worn out paint finish on a bike. Needless to say you will
have spent some money on your mountain bike at some point, and you’re going to want
it to stay looking good. Now, some people are more
precious about this than others. But what really counts is the fact that you’re riding a mountain bike in an off road environment, you’re around nature’s grinding paste, that means mud, that means sand, that means grit. All of that stuff combined
with the way that you ride and the conditions you ride in ultimately mean you’re
going to prematurely ruin the look of your bike. It’s going to get old
and haggard a lot faster if you don’t look after it
and take some precautions. The obvious one to do if
you have a brand new frame is to take care of it
before you even ride it by getting some sort of
frame protection kit. Something like invisiFRAME,
there’s various different brands offer a
similar service on the market. But essentially it’s a helitape kit, you cover up all the
important parts of the bike that are typically exposed to being rubbed and damaged from various different things. It can just be as simple
as the brake cables or the brake hoses
rubbing your paint away, you can protect against
that using helitape. The chain stays and
seat stays on your bike are often subject to riding
shoes rubbing on them, depending if how you ride, if you have flat pedals for example, you’re quite often a bit
more ankles in on the bike for a bit more support, and in which case you’re
quite likely to rub some of that paint off, so get
them protected nice and soon. The same goes for your
chain stays on the top. You probably want a bit of
rubber across the top of there to protect it from the constant slapping of the chain on it,
’cause it takes paint off as well as basically making
it sound quite awful as well, you really want it to be nice and silent. The other area you want to
pay attention to of course is the top tube of your bike. If you ride with any sort of knee pads or any sort of armor on your legs, it’s quite likely when you’re
moving around on the bike, you might not realize
this, but you will actually be rubbing the paint away
slowly on the tops of your bike. Now, the final one is the
underside of the down tube and underneath the bottom bracket shell, where you’re subject to rock strikes and other stuff from flying up. Now, day to day protection,
again, good old helitape, anything like that is good
to cover it cosmetically. However, if you’re doing
something like a season at somewhere like New Zealand
or Whistler or in the Alps, then you’re likely going to be
doing chairlift accessed riding, which means you’re going to
be riding a lot rockier stuff, and you definitely will
have rocks flying up, they’re going to hit your frame, and they can cause a lot more damage. Now, if this sounds like you, you really do want some
heavier duty protection. I quite often refer to Scotch, 3M Scotch rubber mastic tape. Now, admittedly it’s not
the best stuff in the world, but for this protective purpose, it’s actually really, really helpful. If you want something
a bit more heavy duty and don’t mind something
doesn’t look quite as nice, use a section of old tire. I’m seeing this quite
a lot with seasonaires, cutting it up and just putting it under their BB shell there and the bottom where you get those worse rock strikes. Not cleaning your bike. Cleaning your bike is
the perfect opportunity to get hands on with it and
give it a thorough inspection. Now, you want to be working
around your bike systematically, find a system that works for you. I tend to work front to back. Everyone has their own way, stick to it so you don’t miss any part of the bike. Now, what I mean by hands
on is get a grip of it, get a feel of things. Feel that back wheel,
see if there’s any play, look at the linkages, see
if there’s anything going on that shouldn’t be going on, run an Allen key around the bike, make sure all your proper
bolts, your pivot bolts, all that sort of stuff, make
sure it’s all torqued up and tight and taught as it should be. Pay attention to it and clean it. And hopefully you won’t
be leading yourself to a ruined bike that
costs you loads of money. Okay, and the last one is overusing it. Yeah, you might think me mad
for saying something like this, but some people override their bikes and basically classically wear them out long before their time. Now, whilst it’s amazing to
ride your bike all the time, if you only have one
bike, it can be a problem. Now, plenty of friends
have got a single bike, they commute to work on that bike, they ride them all week in the salt, in the grime on the roads, then they go out on the
trails at the weekend, riding in our typically wet UK conditions, wearing out brake pads,
wearing out drive trains, constantly spending money on their bikes. Sometimes there is a better way. Having a rat bike is a pretty
good way of doing this. Now, build yourself up something cheap, just get a second hand bike,
put some mudguards on it. Keep that as your rat bike for commuting, all the daily chores and stuff like that. Popping to the shops, riding to work, riding to college, wherever
you need a daily for. It doesn’t matter if
it’s cheap and cheerful, it’s not going to get nicked,
you don’t have to worry about it. And it’s going to keep your
pride and joy nice and clean and in better condition for the weekends. Now, I’m not suggesting you don’t enjoy your bike on a daily basis, but just be aware that
you could be prematurely wearing your bike out by using
it constantly all the time, and it is a good idea to
spend a couple hundred quid and have that second bike if your main bike is an
expensive suspension bike. Well, there we go, there’s seven ways you could be ruining your mountain bike, and hopefully a few tips you can take away and make sure you’re not
doing that to your own bikes. If you’ve got any of
your own tips like this, let us know in the comments underneath, we’d love to hear from you. For a couple more helpful videos, click up here for deep
cleaning your drive train. That’s something I recommend
really should do that annually. Make sure it stays in good condition. If your riding condition’s like ours, you probably want to do
quite a lot more frequently. And click down here if
you want to turn your bike into a commuter, that is
turning your existing bike, not buying a rat bike for that purpose, but a pretty good video nonetheless. As always, give us a huge
thumbs up here at GMBN Tech. Click that subscribe button
and hit that notification bell. Cheers, guys.

100 thoughts on “7 Ways You’re Destroying Your Mountain Bike | MTB Maintenance Tips

  1. #askgmbn
    Hi gmbn My dad is 2 meters tall and wants to upgrade to a full suspension bike although he is struggling to find a bike that is good for his height. Can you please leave some recommendations of good affordable bikes
    Thank you. 😄
    P.s. he rides XC

  2. This is the perfect video particularly because it's the end of the MTB season (for some of us).

    GMBN Tech should recruit Sam Pilgrim for a WHAT NOT TO DO series.

    With Sam Pilgrim as a guest host, you can produce a WHOLE lot of DON"T DO videos.

  3. HELP ME How is it bossible i build kicker and i usted like 20 jumps then l went to shred and my fork front wheel.. Startted to make noices what sounded like Brake Disc that was rubbing but i have center lock and i have never remowed my disc brakes it has only been torcked fron shop and my caliper/disc wherent loss

  4. Slowly been adding to my stable so I can follow the last rule. And its more fun when you have specialized bikes for different type of riding. Currently have a commuter with panniers and baskets and racks for groceries and city riding. Roadbike for the paved trail systems, Hardtail, full suspension enduro, and a full sus XC. I need a bigger bike carrier I only can hold 4 at a time, tipe to stick 2 on the roof!

  5. For everyone who do not have a chain measuring tool you can use a caliper to measure. A new chain is 132mm and when it is 133 it is usually time to change. Once it hits 134mm you have to change the cassette in most cases.

  6. I got a carrera vengeance for 5 quid the wheel axles needed replacing because it was bent but I had the same 1 in the parts draw and no gears on it so put front shifter and rear shifter and mech on which I had in parts bin and 4 ok cables I had lying around which worked fine the bike originally had fluids on it but I went with mechanical it's cheaper I don't need to bleed it and I can replace cables very cheap when needed the rest of the bike was fine thee bb felt like new because it's a sealed cartridge and the headset bearing were fine aswell so that's my winter bike I also don't use expensive oils on it only cheap oil and don't clean it as much as I should but I don't care it's there to use so I don't wreck mine in winter only this 1 I also took the rockshoxdart of the front and put a cheaper fork on because they were too good of condition for that bike i got it from a friend who kept it in his house and one day said you can have it for 5 quid so I took it now it's still on the road where any commuters bike should be

  7. I love GMBN techn videos. Super helpful.
    Great teachers!
    I’ve got a new channel I’ve been working on/
    So.dirt.e productions. Come check me out and see what all the mess is about. Mtb, music, sk8 boarding, surfing. All around Action sports and outdoors. Thx guys!

  8. CHECK out the Frame Protector That I reviewed on my channel. It's really good and highly recomended https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uff1pP-HViA&t=20s

  9. Question! when I use a chain wear indicator it gives some percentages 25%-50%-75%-100%. At what percentage would u guys advice to change the chain when it comes to saving the cassette?

  10. No way, I’m a “one bike” kind of guy… I commute every day, all year long, in our danish weather on my high end MTB… of course my commute includes several km of MTB trails both ways. There is no way I would be happy riding anything other than my main bike when out on the trail or even when I’m not.
    I have had, at one point, 4 bikes, 3 bikes and 2 bikes which I’ll alternated between and found it cost me much more in maintenance time and spares to keep them all riding well.

    Also, my bike lives safely up in my office too. 👍😎

  11. First trip to a California bike park on my new bike left my downtube with numerous small nicks in the paint. I wish I would have used helitape before my first ride.

  12. Fox Talas 26 inch, 9mm QR with straight steerer and more than a 100mm of travel must be worth a half million pound on ebay.

  13. My bb fell apart yesterday and my rear wheel has 1cm side to side play. All other bearings are fine. My chainring looks like a saw blade even though I change my chain every 2-3 months and clean my chain as often as possible.

  14. Totally agree about having a dunger bike for running around on. It's a great way to use the partly warn or not so cool parts off your main bike and get more use out of them, and then buy new bits (guilt free) for your main bike.

  15. Correx sheets make excellent frame protection. It's a corrugated plastic sheet, similar in structure to cardboard box. Two surfaces and tubular internal structure. lightweight, cut with scissors, and is great for underside of downtube and chainstays. Fasten with tiewraps.
    Been using it as a chain slap guard for chainstays and bottom bracket "jacket" for years.

  16. alot of times i'll clean the stanchions and seals off … put a drop of two of oil on my fork seals … cycle it a few times … then wipe away any dirt it's pulled up from the seals

  17. My local shop will sell it to me thr 2019 norco sight a2 for $3000 with tax? Is this bike a good buy? Or is there a better bike for same or less money? Thanks

  18. Man i have a fox kashima with some wear i bought it like that and still going strong with new everything basicly on some forks it dosent affect here in costa rica things are used to the last like the old rst storm with lots of wear on the stanchions, youl need to come here to understand how mtb here uses things that in the usa are discarded and given new life if you ever plan to come il haply help you out to show the mtb culture here and lend you a bike

  19. #askgmbntech hi guys was wondering what the different wear rates are between resin pads and disks and sintered ie how many sets of pads shud I be going through per disk before changing disk and is there a big difference between the two compounds

  20. I dunno about frame 'protection'. I ride the shit out of my bikes, and they get beat up. No amount of tape or rubber is going to help (having tried that). I just accept that my bike is going to get dings and scratches and worn. Those are character marks, in my book.

  21. I just put plastic wrap on my frame when going to whistler because it's cheaper than tape and you don't have to wear out the paint. Its especially useful on the frame near the chain. So you don't need degreaser for the black stuff.

  22. I use my MTB to commute to work (roads here aren't that finished) and man after watching this… I pity my bike hahahaha!

  23. I don't bother with my XC MTB in winter and use a winter road bike instead. Then it's easy to keep the bike in great shape.

  24. So, first buy an expensive bike, then clean it all the time and worry that it constantly ages, and in the end ride around with an old antique. Fantastic tips! 👎

  25. Love how he said New Zealand for riding lift parks when there’s only a few in New Zealand, but I still love my country and the riding is 😍

  26. Waealimits of a Discrotor are nealy always on the rotor itself! Be carefull not to measure the unused parts of the rotor and only the breking surface itself, the method he showed in the Video is not how you get a good measuring.

    Wearlimits of :
    Shimano 1.5mm with an original thickness of 1.75mm
    Magura 1.7mm with an original thickness of 2.00mm
    Sram/Avid 1.5mm

    TekTro 1.6 with an original thickness of 1.85

    In German:
    Das Verschleißlimit steht meistens auf einem der Arme der Bremsscheibe. Beim messen mit einem Messschieber muss man aufpassen dass man nicht einen der Arme mit misst. Am bessten legt man den Messschieber in Scheibenlaufrichtung so dass man auch nicht den kleinen Grad an der Scheibenkante mit messen kann.
    Verschleißlimits von verschidenen Herstellern sind:
    Shimano 1,5mm mit einer Orginaldicke von 1.75mm
    Magura 1.7mm mit einer Orginaldicke von 2.0mm
    Sram/Avid 1.5mm
    TekTro 1.6 mit einer Orginaldicke von 1.85

  27. Good tips thanks, I'm guilty of everything lol, I only really ever do the real basics like cleaning the bike and checking for anything loose,
    But I don't have expensive bikes because they just get stolen …..
    I'm wanting an e mountain bike soon though so need to learn to look after stuff better.

  28. Been riding mtbs for donkeys years… always cleaned my chains manually. Got a new 2019 bike …I got a bit lazy and started using a chain cleaner thingy… you know thread yer chain through spin it round , rinse and spray. On routine inspection of my rear freehub ..the grease had been washed out of the freehub cone bearings.
    I now clean manually again…two scrubbing brushes over a bucket …on a work-stand wheel off of course chain hanging over the bucket … rinsing the chain with a kettle of boiled water. Spray / oil good to go… ( do this on every off road adventure)

  29. instead of clear plastic to protect my frame paint job, how about clear decals or plastic with markings to look like a severely damaged, cracked, or abused bike so that no-one will want to steal it? The decals should be easily removable for selling time.

  30. #askgmbn #askgmbntech Love the videos guys. I have a Scott spark 960 and it has QR 141×5 rear hub. im having a lot of problems with broken spokes and quick releases, is there a way of getting tougher wheels with QR 141×5 or changing the axel in some way. my riding has progressed somewhat over the passed 3 years and i know its a cross country bike but it fits me perfect and a love it. It did survive a few days in Innsbruck without any problems to which i was surprised.

  31. #ASKGMBNTECH Hi GMBN Tech Boys, I have a nasty looking oval wear patch on the front of the right (solo air) stantion of my Rock Shox SID brain fork (3x4cm, just poking above the wiper seal at rest). There is corresponding wear on the fork’s internal bushing. Is my fork screwed or should I just think about changing the bushing? The fork is new-ish to me but did not have so much wear when I got it. I’ve done a lower leg service and there seemed to be enough, clean fork oil drain out when I did it so I’m not sure what caused the wear. Thanks lads.

  32. My fox 40 (2010) has a bit of wert in the rear shock and front fork it still works just feels notches and stiff + the clickers stopped working. is if a rite off

  33. I am skeptical that the chain can be replaced without replacing the cassette. Okay, you get a new chain but your cassette is already slightly worn! That will wear tie new chain! The best solution is to lubricate, lubricate, lubricate and then swap as a set

  34. #askgmbntech Good tip with frame protection. Use a hair dryer or heat gun to make the frame protection more pliable and less likely to tear when applying. Also if you do it wrong it easier to remove and start over and easier to push out air bubbles.

  35. well, good point on the last thing with bike overuse, another good reason to have a cheaper extra bike if youve got an expensive bike – some people steal bikes, and if your bike is stolen well it ain't running well for you either. I personally use my old half-dead hardtail for commute and such whilst I ride my fully for the funsies on trails and such

  36. I personally think that its also important to not clean your bike after every ride. A little bit of dust or some water drops won‘t be a problem to your bike. Its more demaging the bike if you always wash it because of all the bearings!

  37. Those knackered bearings and grindy forks sound like me in the mornings. Sound advice. Best tool I ever bought was a chain checker, saved me hundreds of pounds replacing expensive cassettes and chain rings. Cheers Daddy.

  38. #askGMBNTech Why dont forks anymore have the protective flexible rubber boots on them anymore? Instead the suspension is open to the elements. There must be a reason…

  39. A timely video. This morning's pre-work ride was the first really muddy one since spring. It might be time to switch back to my cheap hardtail and save the full suss bike for special events until conditions improve next year.

    Brake pad wear is a funny thing. One really crappy wet winter I got through three sets. Most winters I just need to replace the pads once. Every ride involved at least one stop to clean off mud with a stick just so I could keep the wheels turning. When you have heavy clay based soils and then tracks that have been surfaced with sand and fine gravel, you have the perfect recipe for worn out bike parts.

  40. I’ll have to show this to my wife that purchasing my second mountain bike was so I don’t “overuse” my main bike!

  41. Yea always got to keep shitty bikes around. No worrying about it braking down or no need to carry locks around. Just roll up to the store –> kick down the side stand –> enter store –> buy beer –> ride to fridge

  42. So much to worry about. I now will decide to just simply purchase a new bike every Spring Season, sell off the used one. This way I never need to worry about bike maintenance. Expensive yes, but worry free.

  43. Ever since my dad bought his first mtb which was a 2004 specialized rockhopper which I am riding since my last bike was stolen and the bottom bracket has never had to be replaced

  44. with my 2014 Fuel Ex there is no way to not wear it fast.
    Bad linkage design, horrible engineering mistakes, possibly bad tolerances in headset, cus I need to replace the bearings every year to have smooth bearings.
    the bearings in rocker link go come out cus of flex, and there is nothing to stop it horrible design.
    on my fork I worn the Quick release axle , but I got two of the same fork and axle, it was resistant to coming out, and had a lot of friction, so I installed the other one.
    but fork looks like someone used sand paper on it, and diamond file, but so far the other axle work.
    but fork has been serviced by Cyklon.no so fox importer, service sentre.

  45. Any tips how to get out of the evil circle of leaking Shimano brakes?
    lasted few months, few rides, few rides.
    but I got TRP Spyke Mechanical brakes too, I think I will need to go back to them, cus I can't take it anymore.
    Also a issue I have is gravel and hard braking bending the pads, and once it damaged a piston. I've sent 3 brakes in for warranty, I'll see how it goes, but as I was riding home the front brake leaked after few rides, it's ridiculous.
    I've never had brakes last so long I got black fluid.
    at least they are better at the lever than the M615, but still have some plastic.
    but reach adjustment is silly, kids can't use them cus they won't be able to use full power, I can use them as they come, in mid setting, but if they leak it means lever to the grip.

  46. I haven't learned anything new, but but great advise.
    but my next step is new proper frame, suspension.
    but I need something proper, not what I got now, it could make someone crazy.
    I am think it might be a Nicolai. easy to work on, no silly stuff, good cable routing.
    and double sealed bearings, cus the pivots have covers with seals on them, seems like a good idea, But I see Pole bikes claim that's a bad idea, and it traps water in there.

  47. About the over using, yes it’s a bike and you can ride it. What some forget though, are the gears. Constantly using the same gear will wear that gear out. For some reason you just ’have to’ ride with 400 watts all the time. Just use the gears. They are there for a reason. You don’t ride your car on the 5th gear all the time either.

  48. I love that 7th one. But I love riding my cool 29" so much more than my older 26" (lot of good ❤️ memories, so she is never going to be a rat).

  49. I've heard that lifting a bike by the saddle (or hanging the nose of the saddle) can harm some dropper posts by sucking air into the system. Is this true? I definitely have air in my Reverb, and even if I bleed it out, it returns, signaling that some seal is compromised. I DO hang it by the nose of the saddle sometimes (e.g. on a repair stand when I don't want to clamp it (I have external routing and it's a PITA to avoid clamping the dropper's hose). Is this bad?

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